China's largest inland lake — turquoise water, endless rapeseed blooms and Tibetan nomads.
Qinghai Lake is the largest lake in China — a vast, wind-rimmed sheet of blue set in high grassland, ringed by prayer-flagged passes and Tibetan nomad camps. In July and August the shore explodes in yellow rape flowers against the blue.
It is a sacred place for Tibetans and a favourite loop for cyclists on the plateau highway that rings it.
Here are the highlights worth your time in Qinghai Lake.
The lake itself — shoreline, causeways and viewpoints.
Shore areas ¥90The main developed peninsula with boardwalks.
Tickets ¥90A nesting site for bar-headed geese (seasonal).
SeasonalA 'mirror of the sky' salt lake nearby.
Tickets ¥60The classic sunrise spot on the east shore.
FreeA high pass with panoramic lake views.
FreeQinghai Lake has its own kitchen — here are the dishes to try.
Thick, tart yogurt from nomad herds.
Boiled lamb, eaten plain with salt.
A mild Tibetan barley liquor.
Catch from the lake, simply cooked.
Roasted barley flour, the Tibetan staple.
Nomad tents at Heima River.
Guesthouse fires in season.
Some of China's darkest skies.
Train to Haiyan/Xining then bus.
Xining (XNN), then 2 h transfer.
Tour buses from Xining.
The ring road is a famous cycling loop.
Limited at the lake — charter a car.
Where you stay shapes the trip. Three good bases:
Nomad-style camps by the shore.
Hotels at the main point.
Simple inns for sunrise.
Cyclists, photographers, plateau road-trippers.