Gateway to the Tibetan plateau — mosques, lamaseries and the Qinghai-Tibet railway start.
Xining is the capital of Qinghai and the gateway to the Tibetan plateau — here the Han, Hui, Tibetan and Tu peoples meet. It is where the Qinghai-Tibet railway begins its climb to Lhasa, and where a great mosque and a great lamasery sit within the same city.
Summer is the sweet spot: cool, sunny and timed with the blooming of the vast rape fields around nearby Qinghai Lake.
Here are the highlights worth your time in Xining.
A major Gelugpa monastery, birthplace of Tsongkhapa.
Tickets ¥80A grand Hui mosque, busy on Friday.
Free (respect dress)Thangka and Tibetan-medicine exhibits.
Tickets ¥60China's largest inland lake, ~2 h away.
Areas ¥90Riverside old quarter and night market.
FreeA central green with a small zoo and paddle boats.
FreeXining has its own kitchen — here are the dishes to try.
Boiled lamb eaten with the hands, a plateau staple.
Cold wheat skins with chili and vinegar.
Thick plateau yogurt, served plain or sweet.
A sizzling potato-and-lamb skillet.
Dried yak meat, a trekking snack.
Nanchuan food stalls after dark.
Tibetan butter-tea spots.
Evening music in the parks.
Qinghai-Tibet railway to Lhasa starts here.
Xining (XNN) is international-ish (Cape).
Coaches to Qinghai Lake and the plateau.
Works with foreign cards.
Line 1 covers the core.
Where you stay shapes the trip. Three good bases:
Quiet, near the monastery.
Central, food at the door.
For the Lhasa train.
Plateau trekkers, railway buffs, Muslim-food fans.
